Encantado

Instead of watching fireworks for 4th of July, we took advantage of the mid-week holiday to go on a backpacking trip to the Enchantments. This remote area near Leavenworth requires permits, and only 15 people are allowed in every day. The beginning of the trail is well-maintained by both rangers and mountain goats, but the last third requires you to navigate via cairns. After fording a couple streams and struggling nine miles in the heat Kelly finally got tired of carrying me and left me standing in a skateboard-park-like rock formation. Luckily Ryan came back for me. We decided to camp next to Lake Viviane, a severely clear pool of icy blue water with Prussik peak as a backdrop. After setting up camp on the sandy bank of the lake Kelly and Ryan decided to rinse off some of the dirt and sweat in the lake. The water sparkled temptingly, but I noticed the ice and snow that ran right to the edge and decided to stay out. Washing off was more like a rodeo than swimming - staying in the freezing water for more than 8 seconds was a feat. After a tasty dinner of tortellini with marinara sauce and deer sausage we settled into the tent to avoid the mass of mosquitoes that had discovered us.

After a good night's sleep and armed with the knowledge that the 40-lbs packs were staying at camp, we headed out to explore the surrounding lakes and peaks. Kelly finally made it around a treacherous snow-field only to encounter an angry mama goat. The kid stuck close as mama circled around Kelly, pretty much ignoring Ryan and myself. She followed us doggedly until we left her territory and stepped out into a lush alpine meadow. Streams bubbled through the grass and snow creating deep, clear pools lined with small wildflowers. The heat of the day melted the snow and made the shade of larches a welcome sight. We rested under the trees, snacking on dried fruit until the mosquitoes found us and prompted us to move on. A marmot, a large, lazy cousin of mine, munched on grass entirely unconcerned about our presence. Kelly, still a little shaky from the fall down the snow field, decided the trek up Little Annapurna was too much for her, so we turned for Prussik peak. Napping on a rock ledge in the warm, afternoon sun we were woken by a curious mountain goat with a similar agenda. Panting under his thick, shaggy coat he peered down at us, then laid down and watched us leave. Our stomachs were growling, so we headed back to camp. Sticky with sweat and sunblock and deet, Kelly and Ryan decided to try the lake again - but it was still ice-cold. After dining on orzo the mosquitoes drove us back into the tent, where we spent what was left of Ryan's birthday watching the sunset and napping. The big dipper sparkled over the jagged outline of Prussik, and the quiet of the mountain air was interrupted only by the wind and the local mountain goats circling our tent.

For our last full-day we wandered through the lakes up to Enchantment Peak, which is the 50th or 53rd or 52nd highest peak in Washington, depending on which list you look at. At around 8520 ft it was high enough to give us a amazing, sweeping view of central Washington. The wind tugged violently on the map as we tried to identify the peaks around us - with Cannon mountain being one of the most distinctive. Half a dozen mountain goats lounged in the snow below us, trying to cool off. We finished off most of our food supply for dinner, which included Jell-o pudding - a treat I rarely even get at home. Wearing our raincoats to dissuade the mosquitoes, we packed up everything but the tent and the stove and tried to go to bed early so we could hike out before the sun and temperatures rose.

On the way out we passed the few other tents of the weekend campers. The packs were a bit lighter on the way down since we had eaten most of the food, so we made pretty good time in the crisp morning air. We descended into Leavenworth around 9 am just as it began to heat up, and feelt sorry for the people with full packs starting the long trek. We ate brunch and found milkshakes before leaving the touristy Scandinavian town.